Stitch Swatch Sampler Swatch 9: Slip Stitch Rib

SWATCH 9:  SLIP STITCH RIB

This is an amazing stitch pattern.  It forms a fabric that, when turned  90 degrees, resembles a knitted ribbing, both in appearance and resilient stretchiness.  

Slip Stitch Rib Swatch, turned 90 degrees

Once you practice a bit, I think you will love it!  It is much more rib-like than single crochet in the back loop.  If you choose to use this as a rib at the edge of a sweater or cap, you will need to crochet it from side to side of the garment…that’s just the way this stitch works.

The stretch of this rib

Ch 17 (multiple of 1, +2 turning chains)

Row 1:  Sl st in 3^rd ch from hook and in each ch across row.  15 sts.  Turn work.

Row 2:  Ch 1, sl st in BL of each st across row.  Turn work.

Rep Row 2 until your piece measures 4 inches.  Break off and weave in ends.

Abbreviations:  Ch  chain  sl st  slip stitch  st  stitch  BL  back loop  Rep  repeat

To work a sl st, insert the hook into the next st, yo hook, and draw through the st, then immediately through the loop on the hook.

Slip Stitch Rib Pro Tips:

•  Turn the right edge of the work to the back, then to the left at the end of each row.  It might seem more natural to turn the work as if the fabric were the page of a book, but I find turning it this way creates a nicer edge.  Try it both ways, and see which you prefer.
•  Instead of inserting the hook into the back loop of the last stitch, insert it under the front loop and the diagonal loop at the edge of the work (see photos).
•  Be sure to not work your slip stitches too tightly.  Aim for a consistent, even tension.

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  Insert hook under the strand marked in red, then under the strand marked in blue

  

  Hook inserted under horizontal strand

    

Hook inserted under diagonal strand at edge.  Note that the hook tip comes out to the side, rather than to the back of the work.

Stitch Swatch Sampler Swatch 8: Checkerboard Stitch

SWATCH 8:  CHECKERBOARD STITCH

Checkerboard Stitch

Ch 14 (multiple of 4, plus 2 turning chains)

Row 1:  Sc in 3^rd ch from hook and in each st across.  12 sts.  Turn.

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts.  *Sc in next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts.  Rep from * across row.

Rep Row 2 nine times more, until you have 10 rows total. 

Last row:  Ch 1, sc in each st across row.  Break off.

Checkerboard Stitch Pro Tips:

• ·         As for single crochet, work the last stitch into the turning chain instead of the last stitch; this will give a more straight, even edge.  In general, use single crochet pro tips.
• ·         Note that normally you will be working a sc into a dc or a dc into a sc when working this stitch pattern.
• ·         If you have trouble getting the correct gauge on this stitch pattern, use whatever hook size will give you the stitch gauge (12 sts=4”).  Adjust the row gauge by working more or less rows (making sure your first and last rows are in plain sc).  If it helps, you could work two sc rows at each end instead of one…whatever works.

Stitch Swatch Sampler Swatch 7: Up and Down Stitch

SWATCH 7:  UP AND DOWN STITCH

Up and Down Stitch

Ch 14 (Multiple of 2, + 2 turning chs)

Row 1:  Sc in 3^rd ch and in each st across.  Turn.  12 sts.

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in first st, (dc in next st, sc in next st) 5 times, sc in last st.  Turn.

Rep Row 2 until you have 11 rows, then rep Row 1.  Break off.

Abbreviations:  ch  chain  sc  single crochet  st  stitch  dc  double crochet  rep  repeat

Up and Down Pro Tips:

• ·         As for single crochet, work the last stitch into the turning chain instead of the last stitch; this will give a more straight, even edge.  In general, use single crochet pro tips.
• ·         Note that normally you will be working a sc into a dc or a dc into a sc when working this stitch pattern.
• ·         It may help to chant, “Single, double” over and over again as you do this stitch pattern.  If there are people around, you have my permission to just think it.
• ·         If you have trouble getting the correct gauge on this stitch pattern, use whatever hook size will give you the stitch gauge (12 sts=4”).  Adjust the row gauge by working more or less rows (making sure your first and last rows are in plain sc).  If it helps, you could work two sc rows at each end instead of one…whatever works.

Stitch Swatch Sampler Swatch 6: Double Crochet

SWATCH 6:  DOUBLE CROCHET

Double Crochet Swatch

(Note:  I had to use a size H hook to get the correct gauge on this square.)

Ch 15 (Multiple of 1 + 2 turning chains)

Row 1:  Dc in 4^th ch from hook (counts as a st) and in each ch across.  Turn.  13 sts. 

Row 2:  Ch 3 (see Double Crochet Pro Tips), dc in next st and in each st across.  Turn.

Rep Row 2 until you have a total of 7 rows, or until swatch measures 4 inches high.

Abbreviations:           Ch  chain       dc   double crochet        st    stitch      Rep   repeat

Double Crochet Pro Tips:

• ·         I find that two turning chains work better for me at the beginning of a dc row than 3.  It makes a straighter, smoother edge for me.  Try it and see if it works better for you!
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•       As for single crochet, I prefer the look of the edge if I turn the work so the right edge goes to the back, rather than turning the work like the page of a book.  Again, see which you like best.

• ·         If you want each double crochet to be perfectly aligned with the dc below it, try this.  Insert your hook under 3 strands at the top of the dc, not just under the top 2.  Look at the dc you are working into.  Below the top two strands, there is a more or less horizontal strand at the front of the work.  It forms a sort of sideways “V” (opening to the left) with the front strand at the top of the stitch.  

Insert hook under top 2 strands and strand marked with red dot

      

Completed dc 

Dc stitches lined up neatly

       If you insert your hook under all 3 of these strands, when you draw the loop through the stitch, your stitch will rise up out of the center of the stitch below it, not slightly to the side of it.  This works well for techniques like Filet Crochet, where you want the stitches to line up accurately.  Note that if you are working in the round, the opposite side of the stitch will be facing you, so that horizontal strand will lie at the back.  If you are working into the back loop of a round of dc, you can insert your hook into the back 2 loops only and create a more solid join at the base of your stitch.

Can you see a difference between my original swatch (left) and the one made using my Double Crochet Pro Tips?

Excerpted from Crochet Basics by Rebecca Harmon

Double Crochet

Make a chain.  Rotate the hook counter-clockwise so that the yarn wraps around the shaft once.  Insert the hook into the fourth chain from the hook (see Fig. DC-1), catch the yarn on the hook and pull through the chain stitch.  There are now 3 loops on the hook.  Wind the yarn over the hook again (this is called yarn over and is abbreviated yo), and pull through 2 loops.  Yo hook again, and pull through the last 2 loops on the hook.  You have just completed one double crochet stitch.

Fig. DC-1

For the next double crochet stitch (dc), yo hook, insert the hook in the next chain to the left, yo and pull through the chain, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through 2 loops.  Continue in this manner across the row, working one dc into each chain stitch. 

Row 2:  At end of row 1, chain 3; turn work as you would the page of a book.  Yo hook, insert hook under top 2 strands of next stitch, yo hook, pull through stitch, yo hook, pull through 2 loops, yo hook, pull through 2 loops.  Work a dc in each stitch cross row.

Note:  Unless directed otherwise in a specific pattern, insert the hook under both loops of each stitch.

Stitch Swatch Sampler Swatches 4 and 5: Single Crochet in Back and Front Loop

I didn't get last week's swatch post up, so I decided to include it with this week's post.  The two stitches are related...each involves inserting the hook into only one strand of the stitch of the previous row.  If you haven't done this before, start your swatch; after the first row, look at the tops of the stitches of the row you have just completed.  At the top of each stitch are two strands that look like a sideways "V".  When crocheting into the back loop, always insert your hook under the back strand, the one farthest from you, and when crocheting into the front loop, insert it under the front strand, the one closest to you.  Do this the same way on every row to work these patterns.

SWATCH 4:  SINGLE CROCHET IN BACK LOOP

This stitch creates a ridged effect, somewhat like knitted rib.  It is often used for ribbed edgings on sweaters.  Usually it is crocheted from side to side of the garment, so the ribs are oriented vertically.

Ch 15 (Multiple of 1 + 2 turning chains)

Row 1:  Sc in 3rd ch from hook and in next 12 chs.  13 sts.  Turn work.

Row 2:  Ch 1; sc in BL of each st across.  Turn work.

Rep Row 2  13 times more, until you have 15 rows total.

Abbreviations:  Ch(s)  Chain(s)     sc  single crochet    BL  back loop     st  stitch     Rep  repeat

See Single Crochet Pro Tips in Single Crochet Swatch instructions.

SWATCH 5:  SINGLE CROCHET IN FRONT LOOP

This stitch surprised me!  I had assumed that crocheting in the front loop on every row would create the exact same effect as crocheting in the back loop, but I was wrong…the fabric is totally different.  Single crochet in the back loop creates a very textured ridged fabric…a kind of corrugated effect.  Single crochet in the front loop creates a smooth, flat fabric with horizontal lines.  Quite a pretty look, but not at all what I was expecting!

Ch 15 (Multiple of 1 + 2 turning chains)

Row 1:  Sc in 3rd ch from hook and in next 12 chs.  13 sts.  Turn work.

Row 2:  Ch 1; sc in FL of each st across.  Turn work.

Rep Row 2  10 times more, until you have 12 rows total.

See Single Crochet Pro Tips in Single Crochet Swatch instructions.

Stitch Swatch Sampler Swatch 3: Woven Stitch

SWATCH 3:  WOVEN STITCH  

(Adapted from the Reader’s Digest Complete Guide to Needlework, p. 373)

 

Swatch 3:  Woven Stitch

Ch 15.  (Multiple of 2 +1 , plus 2 turning chains)*

Row 1:  Sc in 3^rd  ch from hook  and in each ch across row.  Turn work.  13 sts.

Row 2:  Ch 1; sc in first st, (ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st) 6 times.  Turn work.

Rep Row 2  12 more times, for a total of 14 rows.

Abbreviations:  Ch  Chain     sc  single crochet    sk  skip     st  stitch     Rep  repeat

See Single Crochet Pro Tips.

*To use a different number of stitches, start with a multiple of 2, and add 3 to it.

Here is a chart for Woven Stitch.  Please excuse the rather crude rendition…I am playing around with new charting software.

Chart for Woven Stitch

A Note About Gauge

Stitch Swatch Sampler Project:  Changing the Number of Stitches

If you decide to alter the number of stitches in your swatch, here is how to do it.  I will try to put the information you will need in the instructions for each swatch, after the number of starting chains.  For example, (Multiple of 2+1, +2 turning chains).  To alter the number of starting chains, choose a number that is a multiple of the number stated (in this case, a multiple of 2).  So if your swatch was too big, you will need to chain less than the number stated in the instructions.  To this number you will add however many additional chains specified to work the pattern, (in this case, 1), plus the number of chains you will need to chain up for your first stitch (in this case, 2).  Here’s why.

Let’s look at the instructions for Alternate Stitch.  It says to chain 15.  If you look at instructions for the second row (where the stitch pattern really starts), you will be skipping the first stitch, then working two stitches in the next, and will repeat this pattern across the row.  Here is how it looks, graphed out:

The row of starting chains are represented by the 14 ovals on the bottom and the one oval at the right side.  The first row is represented by the plus signs, which each denote a sc stitch.  The first row is read from right to left, the second row (which begins with a chain stitch) is read from left to right.  On the second row, you will repeat the highlighted section (sk 1 st, 2 sc in next st) until you get to the last st.  So you have a repeat of 2 stitches across the row, with one more sc in that last stitch.  In order to maintain the same number of stitches in each row, you need to use the same number of stitches each time, which is a multiple of 2, plus that last one.  Technically, you could probably work this pattern stitch with an even number of stitches, but I suspect that the last single stitch in the row helps to maintain a more even, straight edge.  When beginning your work, you need to account for the extra stitches needed to chain up to the height of your row, so in addition to the number of stitches you want in each row, you need to add additional ones (the last number, which is the number of turning chains needed to make the “corner” of your work nice and neat). 

So, if you want less stitches in your rows to create a narrower fabric, you will need to chain less than 15.  I would try 2 less, so chain 13.  That would remove one repeat from your pattern.  You would end up with 11 stitches on your first row, instead of 13.